精品推荐：欧珀金耳饰

【藏品名称】：欧珀金耳饰

[collection name]: opperkin Earrings

【藏品数量】：一对

[collection quantity]: a pair

【藏品简介】：明清是中国封建王朝的最后两个时代，这一时期的特点是经济发展集千年于大成，拥有着璀璨的艺术文明表现，在饰品方面也有着很大的变化。服装与饰品是最能体现政治背景以及朝代变迁的东西。很多人们的思想与喜好都能在服装和饰品上体现出来。而耳饰的历史也非常久远，佩戴耳饰的习惯在中国的起源史书中并没有明确的记载，但可以确定原始时期人们就已经知道用耳饰来美化自己，或者借由图腾和纹样意义起到保佑的作用，且佩戴者不分男女。耳饰在明清两个时期，人们也不都是为美观而佩戴，更多的佩戴者是想借由耳饰凸显自己的身份与阶级背景。

[introduction to collection]: Ming and Qing Dynasties are the last two periods of Chinese feudal dynasties. The characteristics of this period are that the economic development of this period has a thousand years in Dacheng, it has a brilliant expression of artistic civilization, and it also has great changes in jewelry. Clothing and accessories are the things that can best reflect the political background and the changes of dynasties. Many people's thoughts and preferences can be reflected in clothing and accessories. The history of earrings is very long, and the habit of wearing earrings is not clearly recorded in the history of the origin of China, but it can be determined that in the primitive period, people already knew to use earrings to beautify themselves, or to protect themselves by totem and pattern meaning, and the wearers were not male or female. In Ming and Qing Dynasties, people didn't wear earrings for beauty, but more people wanted to highlight their identity and class background by earrings.

耳饰为金质，上端为球圆环，环下有类似五瓣花形坠盖，，底部有花形纽。所嵌欧珀珠皆圆润有光、颗粒均匀。清后期西方文化的传入，各种西式的材料和工艺被采用，如钻石、琉璃、珐琅等材料在耳饰上也变得常见。清代对宝石的处理是打磨自然原型为主，以金属为托，配合轻微的捉嵌。晚清之后西方的宝石切割与宝石镶嵌工艺明显影响了中国的首饰制造，从晚清保留下来的“琥珀镶金耳饰”上，有着明显的西方的刻面型手工法和抓爪珠宝镶嵌的工艺。

The earrings are made of gold, with a ball ring at the top, a five petal flower shaped falling cover at the bottom and a flower shaped button at the bottom. The embedded opal beads are round, bright and uniform. With the introduction of western culture in the late Qing Dynasty, a variety of Western materials and crafts were used, such as diamond, glass, enamel and other materials in earrings also became common. In the Qing Dynasty, the treatment of gemstones was mainly to polish the natural prototype, with metal as the support and slight inlay. After the late Qing Dynasty, the Western gem cutting and gem inlay technology obviously affected the jewelry manufacturing in China. From the "Amber inlaid gold earrings" preserved in the late Qing Dynasty, there are obvious Western faceted manual method and claw jewelry inlay technology.

清代耳饰的习俗一是与皇家礼制有着密切关系，不同级别佩戴的珠宝和款式登记有严格的规定;二是和满族的习俗相关联，流行一耳三钳（清中后期逐渐发展为一耳一钳和仿一耳三钳的样式），且在材质的选择上也是非常昂贵。耳饰纹样承袭了明代各种寓意吉祥的纹样，但是又不同于明代的简约，皇家纹饰运用如龙首、古兽等图案，用复杂的纹样设计承托首饰的华贵。耳饰佩戴数量也成为了区分满汉的标志，清代宫廷耳饰和明代最不同的就是款式单一，不同品阶的后妃佩戴的耳饰除了珠宝本身的等级之外，衔珠处的金饰也只有金龙和金云的不同，宫廷耳饰的样式非常的统一。且宫廷耳饰对“东珠”非常看重，只有皇帝的母亲、嫔位以上及皇太子妃才可以佩戴东珠制成的耳饰，且品质有等级，以东珠的等级区分尊卑。满族女子一耳三钳的形象，从很多清代流传下来的后妃画像中可以见到。清代耳饰亦有环形耳钳、坠环耳钳等。清代也有许多的耳饰样式沿袭了明代的款式，但也凸显了鲜明的时代特色，清代耳饰环体更加丰富，坠饰也相对复杂，纹饰更加多样化。此外清代最具特色的首饰装饰就是“点翠”，是用翠鸟羽毛贴缀在表面来增加美观的一种工艺。除了东珠和点翠，清代耳饰用到的宝石种类也是非常多，如珍珠、玛瑙、玉石、翡翠、珊瑚、绿松石、琥珀、碧玺、水晶等天然宝石。

The custom of earrings in Qing Dynasty is closely related to the Royal etiquette system. There are strict regulations on the registration of jewelry and styles worn at different levels; Second, it is related to the Manchu customs, popular one ear three tongs (gradually developed into one ear one tongs and imitation one ear three tongs in the middle and late Qing Dynasty), and the choice of material is also very expensive. The patterns of earrings inherit all kinds of auspicious patterns of Ming Dynasty, but they are different from the simplicity of Ming Dynasty. The Royal patterns use patterns such as dragon head, ancient beast and so on, and use complex patterns to support the luxury of jewelry. The number of earrings worn has also become a symbol to distinguish the Manchu and Han Dynasties. The most difference between the Qing Dynasty court earrings and the Ming Dynasty earrings is the single style. The earrings worn by Empresses of different grades are not only different in the level of the jewelry itself, but also different in the gold ornaments at the bead holding position. The style of the court earrings is very unified. Only the emperor's mother, concubines and princesses can wear the earrings made of Dongzhu. The quality of the earrings is graded, and the level of Dongzhu can distinguish the superior from the inferior. The image of Manchu women with one ear and three tongs can be seen in many portraits of empresses handed down from the Qing Dynasty. In Qing Dynasty, there were ring ear forceps, falling ring ear forceps and so on. In the Qing Dynasty, many Earrings followed the Ming style, but also highlighted the distinctive characteristics of the times. The earrings in the Qing Dynasty were more abundant, the pendants were relatively complex, and the patterns were more diversified. In addition, the most distinctive jewelry decoration of the Qing Dynasty is "Diancui", which is a kind of craft of sticking kingfisher feathers on the surface to increase the beauty. Besides Dongzhu and Diancui, there are many kinds of gems used in earrings in Qing Dynasty, such as pearl, agate, jade, jadeite, coral, turquoise, amber, tourmaline, crystal and other natural gems.